Having a specific behavior problem with your pup? Or just getting tired of being dragged down the street towards other dogs?
pranaDOGS combines positive, reinforcement-based training with your dogs personality to help them make great choices and improve the communication between you and your best friend!
The type of training that works best for dogs is one that allows them to experience and explore the world, learn what’s expected and be acknowledged when they make correct choices. We call this choice-based training and we use positive reinforcement to teach it and help dogs make good decisions no matter the situation.
By marking and reinforcing the behaviors you want your dog to do, and listening and reacting to them when they’re communicating with you, you can watch your dogs confidence grow and your relationship improve!
How pranaDOGS is different
All dogs are different – and taking those differences into account is one of the things pranaDOGS does best. We provide private training on all Core Competencies but unlike other trainers, we gear our training based on your dogs individual needs and your lifestyle.
Shy, reserved and fearful dogs, or dogs who didn’t receive positive socialization can often require a softer touch when training. Building trust, improving self-confidence and holding the space for these guys is key to positive training experiences and helping the dog become more balanced.
On the other end of the spectrum are the dogs who are full of energy, react to every sound or movement and who are often called high-spirited or high-strung. These dogs can be very frustrating to train and often require a calm, cool presence to help them learn and settle into training mode.
Don’t let your relationship with your pet suffer. Many people deal with problem issues that can be resolved or managed with some basic guidance.
Problem Solving FAQ
The formula to stop problem behaviors like barking is to Interrupt the behavior then Redirect the dog.
Stop the barking by interrupting a dog using a variety of mechanisms; a squeaky toy works for a lot of dogs, stomping your feet, clapping your hands, shaken pennies or beans in a can - if none of these work you may need to escalate your response and use your 'man's card' walk toward the dog etc. An interruption typically only lasts 3-5 seconds.
To redirect the dog, give them something to do. Have them grab a toy, go to a particular place, do some tricks, etc. Initially the redirection will need to last as long as the distraction that made them bark.
As you progress in your training together, you'll be able to have shorter and shorter redirection sessions.
Dogs jump for a variety of reasons, mainly to get closer to your face or get your attention. Have your dog wear a leash (flat leashes are best) and step on it as soon as you walk in the door. Be sure to step at a point where your pup can easily sit and lay down but not successfully jump on you. Say Yes! and acknowledge them as soon as they greet you appropriately.
You can also step on your dogs leash before guests walk in the door and when out walking so they don't jump up on others.*
Add a word like 'easy' or 'be nice' as you are stepping on the leash.
*Don't let your pup drag you off your feet. Instead of stepping on the leash, you could wrap it around a street sign, parking meter, park bench, tree or stairway railing. The goal is to have it as close to the ground as possible and to allow them to lay and sit but not successfully jump.
Recall is one of the most important, and lifesaving behaviors you can have for your best friend. Be sure to practice in the house at first then in the yard then in the park and so on. Often it's best to interchange the distance you are from your pup to the length of time you ask them to wait. For example for some dogs we need to practice at 5' for 10 sec, then 30 sec then 90 sec; before working at 10' While other dogs do great from 20' immediately. Note: some dogs have a bad association with the word come, so if your dog is one of these (do they run in the opposite direction when you call them?) then change up the word, try Here. C'mon, Let's go, etc.
If your walk together is your dogs only outlet for activity, then you need to cut them a break and let them sniff a lot, maybe even pull a little at first - let them get their 'dog out.'
There are multiple solutions to stop a pulling dog (see Leash Manners) my favorites are using a belly-band, where you circle the leash around the dogs belly and back through the leash (works fantastic!) or being unpredictable, dog trainers call it Crazy Dog Walker; where you turn 180degrees from the way your dog is pulling and just start walking. The goal is for your dog to look to you for signals rather than deciding themselves.
Dog reactivity is often confused with aggression. Some dogs want to meet each other, smell each other and really investigate - while others want nothing to do with dogs. In any case it's important to have your dogs attention and focus when out and about. If your dog 'checks out' anytime another dog is around, it's time to go back to basic training and remind them you're in this together.
This can be caused by a variety of reasons; a mismatch between dog and human (see Types of Dogs), some tension in the pack (in multi dog households), or - and most often, an under-exercised dog or a bored dog. Many people work long days only to come home to a bored pup who's been waiting all day for you to get home. Use enrichment activities when you need a second, like games, puzzles, food dispensing toys, etc. This will give the dog something specific to do, while you get a second to relax. And sign up for a class, even a refresher course can do wonders to remind dogs that we're in this together.
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